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Aladzha Monastery is the most famous among the numerous rock monasteries that existed on
the Bulgarian Black Sea coast in the 13 – 14 centuries.
These unique cult monuments are spread out over a vast territory,
including the Balkans and the Near East. The historic science claims
that the rock monasteries came into being together with Christianity –
it is a well-known fact that the cave is among the most important
symbols connected with the sacraments of Christmas and the Resurrection.
The latter fact explains why the cave monasteries were part of the life
and religious practice of the hermits and the early monastic
confraternities from the 4th to the 6th centuries
whose traditions were later continued by the medieval rock monasteries. Some
scientists believe that the Varna rock monastery made part of a large
complex consisting of over 500 similar cloisters on the territory of
Northeastern Bulgaria that were connected with Hesychasm, the doctrine
of the holy energy, which was disseminated in Byzantine and Bulgaria in
the 13 – 14 cc. Aladzha
Monastery is one of the numerous natural caves that were formed in the
soft limestone sediments on the bottom of the ancient Sarmatian Sea that
covered nearly the whole of Southeastern Europe 12 million years ago.
The monastery has been attracting many explorers and visitors due to its
beautiful woodland location 14 km from Varna. Aladzha
Monastery was first mentioned in “Letters from Bulgaria”, a book by
the Russian novelist Victor Teplyakov, written in 1832. The systematic
research on this ancient Christian monument was initiated in the end of
the 19th century by the first Bulgarian archeologists – the
brothers Karel and Herminegild (Hermin) Škorpil. Already in the
beginning of the 20th century they founded the Varna
Archeological Society and the Archeological Museum that undertook the
task of managing and preserving the monastery. In 1912 Aladzha
Monastery was declared a national historical monument on the initiative
of the Škorpil brothers and later on, in 1957 it became a cultural
monument of national importance, following a scientific proposal
launched by the National Institute on Cultural Monuments. Aladzha
Monastery is one of the few rock monasteries on the territory of
Bulgaria with clearly distinguishable premises, situated on two levels
in a 40m-high limestone rock. – monastery temple, chapel, requiem
church, crypt (cemetery), kitchen, dining room, monastic cells and farm
premises. In
the Westernmost part of the first level, right by the visitors’
staircase is the monastery church. A small altar niche is carved in the
middle of its eastern wall. The church was decorated with mural
paintings like most Medieval Orthodox churches but, unfortunately, the
easy access to them decided their destiny. What have been left of the
paintings today are hardly readable fragments. Some information about
the wall paintings is contained in K. Škorpil’s notes and in a
watercolour copy of a painting by Milen Sakazov from the beginning of
the 20th century. The image of Mother Mary was painted
centrally in the altar on the eastern wall. It can be seen from the
watercolor painting that the Holy Mother is sitting on a high throne
with the infant Jesus on her lap. Another layer of wall-painings is
clearly perceived on the periphery of the image and especially in its
lower part. The comparative dating of the upper layer dates it back to
the 13th – beginning of the 14th century. In
this case the painting under it of which only an arm holding a book can
be made out (probably part of the image of Jesus Pantocratos) should
date back to the 11th – 12th cc, if not earlier. A
stone staircase is hewn out in the floor of the church, leading through
a narrow tunnel to the other premises on the first level. A narrow
corridor starts from the end of the staircase. Six monastic cells have
been preserved in the northern wall of the corridor. The cells were
separated from the corridor and from one another by wooden partitions.
There are small niches in the walls, which were used to place icons and
other belongings of the monks. Òhe
corridor leads to a large irregular room.
A semi-circular niche is hewn out in its northwestern wall. The small
openings in the middle of the ceiling show that a wooden partition was
used to separate the room in two. The western part (with the niche) was
the kitchen and the eastern part was the dining room. The dining room
was one of the most important rooms in every monastery bearing a certain
symbolism whose roots can be traced down to the “Secret Dinner” and
the common table that was shared by the early Christians. A
short platform leads eastwards from the dining room to a small room,
most of which has been destroyed. The semi-circular abside that survived
in its eastern wall, as well as the East-West positioning of the room
show that this used to be a small church. The fact that it is situated
above the crypt (cemetery) gives reason to believe that it was a requiem
church. A winding wooden staircase used to lead up from the church to
the chapel on the second level. The
crypt (cemetery) is situated in the lowest part of the first level. The
remains of a brickwork wall show that it used to be separated from the
outside world and the entrance. The crypt has only three graves which
leads us to believe that the
Aladzha
monastery monks observed the wide-spread
medieval tradition to remove the remains of the dead monks from the
grave seven years after they were buried and to lay them in a common
grave with the respective ritual. It
is not known to us where the ossuary of the rock monastery was. The
other two graves have been hewn out in the entrance landing and date
back to a later period. The latter fact has been confirmed by an 18th
century silver ring/stamp that was discovered in one of the graves. The
second level of the rock monastery represents one bigger niche with the
chapel in its eastern end. This is the only well-preserved brickwork
room in the monastery. It was used for the everyday religious practices,
while the festive liturgies were officiated in the main church of the
monastery. Part of the original medieval wall paintings here have been
preserved to this day due to the difficult access to the awkwardly
situated chapel and the collapse of the wooden staircase which, we
believe, took place already in medieval times. One of the best-preserved
paintings is the composition on the ceiling, representing a fundamental
Christian subject matter – the Ascension. The style of painting of the
figures, the colours and the ornaments refer the chapel murals to the 13
– 14 cc. which is definitely the heyday of the rock monastery. About
800m Northwest there is another group of caves, hidden in the rich
vegetation. The caves are situated in three levels and the Škorpil
brothers called them the “Catacombs” making analogy with the cult
centres of the early Christian communities of the Roman Empire. Best
preserved is the second level of the caves, consisting of one larger
room with unclear function and a smaller one next to it containing five
grave chambers. Two crucifixes from the early Christian era have been
engraved on the Western Wall of the larger room and on the eastern wall
of the smaller room. The crucifixes were dated back on the basis of the
two engraved letters – “alpha” and “omega”, meaning, “I
(Christ) am the first one and the last one, the beginning and the
end.” There is another grave on the outside landing of the second
level, as well as a small entrance, which has been almost completely
buried under the sliding rocks. The other two levels represent natural
caves that have been inhabited by the monks. The
crypt, the two engraved crucifixes and the 4th-6th
cc. finds – pottery fragments, coins from the time of Justinian First
The Great (527 – 565), as well as the remains of a metallic censer
give us reason to assume that the catacombs have been inhabited in the
early Christian era (4th – 6th cc). The remains
of an early Christian basilica, a small fortification and a number of
settlements located East of Aladzha
Monastery, are also referred to the same historic period. The
connection between the three groups of monuments, situated close to one
another, is unknown to science. It could be presumed that the Catacombs,
the basilica, the fortification and the settlements (and, probably also
the Aladzha
Monastery caves) represent one of the early Christian centres on the
Black Sea coast, mentioned in the chronicles of the Byzantine Emperor
Constantine VII Borphyroges (913 – 959). If this hypothesis is true,
then the 13th – 14th cc medieval rock monastery
could be considered to be a continuation of the ancient Christian
tradition in these parts and, it could be assumed that, together with
the Catacombs, it formed a larger monastic complex. After
Bulgaria’s fall under Ottoman domination in the end of the 16th
century Aladzha
Monastery, like many other Bulgarian monasteries, was deserted. However,
the local people continued to respect and to visit the place even in the
following centuries of foreign domination which is confirmed by the 18th
century silver ring/stamp discovered in the crypt. The
real Christian name of the monastery is unknown to us. The word “aladzha”
is of Persian-Turkish origin and means “motley, colourful”. The
monastery might have been given its name due to the murals preserved in
the chapel. A legend recorded by K. Škorpil in the end of the 19th
century has it that the original name of the monastery was St. Spas,
originating from Christ the Savior. There are no written documents on Aladzha Monastery and the neighbouring monuments. What has been preserved are the legends of monks’ spirits haunting the remains of the monastery, forest deities and endless underground labyrinths, hiding innumerable treasures or, maybe, the undiscovered secrets of this beautiful and mysterious place.
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